Wednesday, 18 September 2013

Prague 2nd time round

Back to Prague for some cheap beer and cheap food. We stayed in a different area, Zizkov (district III)  that is known for its casinos, cheap bars and prostitutes. 
We enjoyed the bars. 
Having seen the sights in the old town of Prague before it was easy for me to navigate. Although, visiting second hand stores around Ziskov was a bit of a trek, up and down the hilly area.

Old Town Square. No snow
Little babies crawling up the TV tower

We didn’t have time to visit the nearby town of Kutna Hora first time round so we made the hour train ride to explore its sights.
A fine looking little town that draws a lot of tourists for its attractions but still holds its central Bohemian charm.
We visited The Sedlec Ossuary also known as the Bone chapel. This place is something else. The chapel houses over 40,000 human skeletons arranged into mounds, a chandelier, a coat of arms and other decorative arrangements around the walls. It’s pretty scary stuff to see all these bones slowly disintegrating. There are plans for restorations later in the year. We enjoyed lunch in a sunny beer garden just off the main square with delicious Czech lunch specials and beer. After lunch we visited the St Barbara’s church that is grand in stature and free on Sundays so we looked inside at its greatness. We walked around the town a bit more and treated ourselves to an ice-cream before making our way back to the train station and home to Prague.
Bones
one of the four mounds of human bones
a coat of arms made out of bones
a chandelier with every bone in the body

lunch in the sun
St Barbara's Church
inside St Barbara's
waiting for the train

We walked around Prague’s Old Town to see the sights again in a different season. It was a change from our visit in February when we had 20 cm of snow the first day. All the summer stalls and outdoor settings set up plus the extra 8000 tourists made our experience quite different. The old town square was still beautiful with delicious smelling food stalls erected around the outside and some summer markets set up in the surrounding streets. I’ve got a photographic memory of where we ate a great Czech dinner the first time round so we went back there for some more delicious food one lunchtime.

old town square
back in Krcma



We also went back to the John Lennon wall to see if our names were still on the wall. Our hopes weren’t high after seeing all the new graffiti sprayed over the top and we couldn’t find our spot again.


Leah looking for our names


Now for the night train, destination Cologne.

arvi



Wednesday, 11 September 2013

Help X in Czech Republic.

chilling on some hay

During Leah’s hours of research before we left Australia, she came across Help X. It’s a volunteering website where host families put you up and feed you in exchange for your help around their home for around 6 hours a day. You can do a wide variety of jobs; gardening, wood chopping, fruit picking, teaching English. We found a great place to try out in the Czech countryside. We both got excited at the prospect of working 10 days on a goat farm where the host family makes bread and cheese. 

Our journey to the tiny town of Lozice was beautiful with cute little towns, rolling hills and some forests. The bus driver who drove us into the town was quite funny. He was waiting for his last run of the day and Leah and I were his only passengers so he pumped up the radio and found some English pop music along with some Czech tunes for our journey.
our bus ride to Lozice
Vladimir, Denisa and their 4 kids welcomed us, fed us and made us feel at home. They live on a small farm in a big old stone house that used to be used for grain milling and bread making, complete with a huge built in old school bread oven. It’s a charming farm with big barn full of hay, a full vegetable patch that’s like a supermarket, a sweat lodge frame for sweat lodge parties, a couple of plum trees (of which we ate lots of), an old, nearly blind dog called Sistra (meaning sister in Czech), a couple of cats with kittens and about a dozen goats that supply the milk for cheese making. Along with selling their goat cheese and bread, they also hire out a huge room on the top floor to yoga and ti-chi groups or for weekend conferences. We stayed on this top floor, which sleeps 18 people has its own kitchen and bathroom. The meals that Denisa cooked us were so tasty and healthy. Denisa likes to cook organically with her own produce with a strong Indian influence (from their time travelling India). As you can probably guess, it’s not a meat-heavy diet but we did eat one of their old goats in burger form, and it actually tasted good!

about 12 plums a day plus some amazing plum slice Denisa made
34 loafs off to market
the house
the kittens
'hey sheep how did you get in here?'

They have been doing Help X maybe twice a year for a couple of years and love having people from all walks of life stay with them. We joined two Taiwanese girls who had already done Help X in France and Italy. The girls only lasted 4 days (we think they left early because the work was too hard for them). The first few days Vladimir had us helping with stocking up wood for the winter. It was good, hard, hands on work. We were moving, stacking, chopping and I hopped on the chainsaw too. Every evening we were very stiff and sore, even more so the next morning. Leah went a bit to hard with the axe splitting wood the first day and couldn’t back up her first day heroics the next day (and had the blisters to prove it).
chopping
our wood stacking
and the hard work result
The next task that Leah and I were given was in an old stone house probably used as a barn or tool shed long ago. I say long ago because it is meant to be over 150 years old and the floor that we were working on was over 300 years old!
Our job was to clean and re-grout the floor. This involved lots of hard work picking, flicking and cleaning old dirt that had been imbedded in between the stones making up the floor. Then we’d fill the gaps with cement to try and level off the floor to make it easy to sweep clean. Just like tiling. Well, sort of. It took a long time, around 5 days to complete but we were all happy with the end effect. Vladimir and Denisa run bread and cheese-making workshops for school children and the room that we were fixing is for the kids to mill the grain and learn how bread is made.
the 'before'  floor
look how fast Leah is working!
finishing touches
On our day off Vladimir recommended some nearby towns and offered us some bikes to ride. We got about 1km down the road when the wheel of my bike buckled and came off. Luckily it was an old bike (their grandmothers) and we were able to borrow another one instead. All up it was a 30km round trip, visiting some castles, palaces, a town fair and enjoying a well-deserved beer. My highlight of the trip was by far the ride through the countryside, along country roads, through little towns and forest hiking trails. I just loved going fast down the occasional hill.
Leah’s highlight was seeing some deer. Behind the palace in Nove Hrady, in the surrounding grounds are a few little museums, a maze and a big paddock with a heard of deer. We were able to walk through the paddock and got really close to some big stags rubbing their antlers in between the trees.
3km away in Luže there is a palace on the hill.
through some forest
we thought about buying this palace in Nove Hrady
enjoying a raspberry slushy in the palace gardens

then I got lost in a maze
Leah stalking the deer
close up shot for Ian
Leah was excited and nervous
We czech’d out a few places the locals go on the weekend, stopping for a beer at a biker pub where lots of families have a day out and bikers take a pit stop to refuel (by fuel I mean beer and by bikers I mean cyclists). We dropped in at the Luže town fair where we caught a traditional Czech band and a local rock band performing. The traditional band must have been playing all the hits because all the oldies around us were singing and foot tapping along. It was quite funny to see the older crowd disperse when the rock band replaced them, playing a very different genre of music. Leah was impressed because they played a cover of ‘Zombie’ by The Cranberries.

beers at the country pub, on the hill because there was no free tables.
traditional Czech tunes
Our first experience with Help X was a great one and it was great to have a base for 10 days, without having to worry about meals, accommodation and travelling. We would definitely do it again down the track and recommend it to anyone travelling for an extended period of time.
sunrise on our last morning run (well Leah ran I cruised on the bike)
arvi 


Thursday, 5 September 2013

Buda+pest


Istanbul decided to leave us both a present, a stomach bug that lasted pretty much all our 6 nights in Budapest… But we battled through it and still managed to enjoy this beautiful city.
We arrived on St Stephan’s day, the biggest national holiday in Hungary. We didn’t realise it was a holiday until the afternoon but we managed to catch the fireworks at night.

fireworks.
old , unkept buildings 
We did lots of walking around as usual and saw all the major sights such as the chain bridge connecting the Buda and Pest sides of the city, the Buda Palace and churches on the Buda side decorated with interesting tiles. We also saw Budapest’s amazing parliament building, which was under construction during our stay. It’s a pretty impressive building, more like a castle and is the second largest parliament building in Europe after London’s. During one of our walking tours we also learnt that Budapest has been the backdrop to many Hollywood movies such Die hard 4 and Munich. It has played places such as Russia, Berlin, Paris and Rome, all because it’s cheaper to film in Budapest!

Opera house
chain bridge
looking back to the Pest side
Matthias Church
Fisherman's Bastions
Matthias Church
St Stephen's Basilica
Eating out in Budapest was pretty cheap so we went out for a few meals to sample some famous dishes such as beef goulash soup and langos; a kind of fried pizza base topped with sour cream, cheese and bacon, healthy! We also browsed around the Central Market where we ate fresh blackberries, cabbage rolls and some delicious sausage and potato dish.
Hungarian sausage and potato.
Cabbage roll on more cabbage!
Central Market
The beer was also cheap so we went to check out some of Budapest’s famous ‘ruin pubs’.  These are pubs built in abandon, run down buildings that were deemed unfit to live in but fit enough to drink in, go figure! These pubs look so cool inside with a collection of random things like a wall of 15 old computer screens, wires and old bikes hanging from the roof, parts of old cars everywhere and even a tree growing in the middle of one pub! We met some cool Aussies (not the annoying ‘Let’s get totally wasted everyday’ Aussies we have come across) and hung out with them a few nights.
one of the walls in the ruin bar
One day we decided to visit the thermal baths. Hungary has over 1000 natural thermal springs, some of which have been made into elaborate bathhouses. We visited a huge bathhouse with 15 indoor baths and 2 huge outdoor baths ranging in temperature from 20 - 38 degrees. Once we got over thinking of people’s germs breeding in the warm conditions we had a relaxing day moving from pool to pool of supposedly ‘healing’ water and using the many steam rooms and saunas.
nice sunny day for it.
32 degree pool
indoor baths
all shapes and sizes.
a nice 38 degrees but was a bit much for me after a few minutes!
We also had a bit of a communist day, with a visit to the House of Terror in the morning followed up with a walking tour about communist times in Budapest during Soviet occupation. The House of Terror is a memorial in a corner building where interrogations, torturing and killing took place during the two communist regimes. We both thought the museum was very well done, in a modern way while still respecting the past. We liked the fact that there were so many videos of personal experiences, most of which had English captions. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take any photos. On our walking tour that afternoon we learnt what life was like living in Budapest during the communist times, how travel was limited and blue jeans became a symbol of status and a highly sought after trading item. Our guide had some interesting stories from his childhood when he helped his father smuggle in luxury items back from Vienna during their trips to visit family, bribing the train guards with coffee.
Imre Nagy Monument
On our last full day in Budapest, we visited some nearby Sunday markets and a fresh produce market held in one of the ruin bars where we tried homemade dips and chutneys.
weekend markets in the same ruin bar we went to a few nights before.
markets in the ruin bar 
Budapest is a really cool, chilled out city and hopefully we will visit again on our way back through Eastern Europe.
running around Margret Island on a rainy afternoon
Leah xo