sweet sweet Sweden

back on a plane

And so started our travels again. First stop Stockholm in Sweden. We were greeted at Karlaplan metro station (at the top of the ‘rolling stairs’) by beautiful Swedish/Estonian Marianne, who we met over 7 years ago in Australia at Eesti Päevad. She had got into contact with us when she heard we were coming to Europe and asked if we would like to stay at her place in Stockholm. Even though it had been many years since we first met, it was like we’d been friends for years! But what was scary was Leah and Marianne have some very similar characteristics like over talking, talking fast, leaving cupboards open and changing subjects mid sentence. Lucky for me I had a lot of practice dealing with Leah and got to remind both of them where they were up to during conversation.

Stockholm at night

Marianne and Leah same pose from all those years ago

back in 2006

chilling

After Marianne cooked us a lovely dinner in the apartment, we walked around some of the beautiful streets and bridges linking the many little islands of Stockholm together. The next day we ventured out by ourselves (Marianne had work). We caught ferries, metro and a bus all around with our 3 day ticket. By far the most interesting stop off was the Vasa museum containing the Vasa ship itself! The Vasa was a war ship that sunk in 1674 making it over 300 years old. Because it was preserved in clay and optimal water conditions, it was still in amazing condition when it was recovered in the 50’s. The ships story was really interesting, with detailed displays of its construction, maiden voyage (it only sailed 1.5km), sinking, time under water, finding and recovery to eventually being restored and now the efforts to slow the deterioration process.

the Vasa

The Vasa museum

Leah on a replica of the crows nest

Me, Leah and Marianne enjoying the sun

thinnest street in all of Copenhagen

The next day we met up with Marianne to see some of Gamla Stan (old town, that sounds like Gangnam style). The streets of old town were very busy in the sunny weather. Dodging tour groups is going to be fun this summer! A lot was going on around the Royal palace because Sweden’s national day was the next day and they were also going to have a royal wedding that weekend. We caught the changing of the guards with probably a thousand other tourists and lots of pushy Asians. It’s a tradition that happens every day and has since the 1400’s!!!

Changing of the guards

near the royal palace

The last morning we got out in the sun and went for a run as part of Leah’s new plan to go for a run in every country. A beautiful sunny jog through green leafy tracks near the water really made us feel better after eating and drinking too much in Estonia. Massive thanks to Marianne, who we are hopefully meeting up with in Estonia in November. Now back to train travel to our next destination Copenhagen.

morning run

The Last instalment, bye for now Estonia!

 

Leah and Arvi somewhere in Lahemaa national park

Wow so much has happened since we first arrived in Estonia 3 months ago.  We have meet so many new friends, seen so many places, learnt about our family histories and Arvi has significantly improved his tolerance to alcohol! Spew boy only comes out on rare special occasions now, yay! Here a quick update on things you may have missed or we forgot to mention.

in front of a windmill in Rocca Al Mare

We both had some friends from back home visit us in Tallinn. First, my friend from uni Emily, who works in London, came to spend the weekend with me. It was so great to see her after over a year and we had a great time exploring the foggy beach at Pirita, showing her around Tallinn and dancing up a storm at Studio nightclub.

Leah and Emily on foggy Pirita beach

hugging near fat Margaret 

Arvi’s friend Steve from London also came to stay for about a week. While these two spent a lot of their time catching up and partying in the bar, we managed to fit in a couple of outings. One of these outings was a 4 hour bike ride out to Rocca Al Mare and around the open air museum. We spent hours exploring the old cottages with thatched roofs, old farms, windmills and learnt how Estonians lived hundreds of years ago.

Riding through the open air museum 

panoramic of the open air museum 

In the second week of May we thought it might be time to have some couple time again so we hired a car and set off to explore Lahemaa National park. We thought it would take some time for Arvi to get used to driving on the wrong side of the road and the opposite side of the car but it was easy enough and we were off. We drove to some little old fishing villages and walked the beautiful coastline, the beach starting right on the edge of forest. While walking through the tracks in Lahemaa, we were on the constant look out for the few bears, beavers and moose that are said to inhabit the forest. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any but there were lots of frogs near the river ahhhh!! It was so bad I ended up being led back to the car by Arvi, screaming with my eyes closed so I couldn’t see them.

Leah just saw some frogs

Rocks that floated on icebergs from sweden and finland 1000's of years ago

walking in the mets

In our last month we also got a chance to visit the university town of Tartu for one night. We were kindly put up by ‘Terviseks’, a small, chilled hostel right in the centre of old town. It was a hot day when we arrived, with temperatures in the high 20’s and the mossies were out in force! They were bigger than those in Australia and can bite through anything! We spent that evening catching up with our Estonian friend Heleri, who we met while she was living in Australia. She was like our tour guide showing us around and we had dinner at an old gunpowder storage place made into a beer hall. We also got a chance to catch up with Triinu from Parnu. We spent our second day exploring some castle ruins and the KGB museum. We both found it very interesting reading about the Soviet Occupation and the several deportations that took place. We ended our trip to Tartu with some beers with Triinu in the only park you’re allowed to drink in public. This place is often filled with university students but due to the recent rain, there weren’t many people around and we were getting eaten alive by mossies.

In Tartu botanical gardens

Maarius from Maxtractor live at Red Emperor (we work with him , youtube it)

Triinu sandwich 

To sum up, our time in Estonia has been amazing. We are so glad we decided to spend some time living and working there rather than simply passing through. We were sad to leave all our new friends, but excited to continue our travels. It was easier saying goodbye knowing we will be back in November before coming home.

Head agega Estonia!!! Stay tunned for our summer European adventures.

The Islands: Saaremaa, Muhumaa and Hiiumaa

During our last week in Estonia, we were lucky enough to visit some of the Islands in Estonia with my Relatives from Viljandi; Elina, Rainer, Ene, Maile,Rasmus and of course, the two girls Tulli and Triin. We stayed at a holiday house owned by their other relatives, on the Island of Muhumaa. Ene had prepared us with a jamm packed, 3 day itinery which allowed us to visit lots of places on the 3 islands of Muhumaa, Saareama and Hiiumaa.

Leah, Ene, Rainer, Elina ja Tulli

We set off early on Thursday morning to catch the ferry to Muhumaa. After getting comfortable in the beautiful, old style holiday cottage, complete with a thatched roof, we set off to explore Saaremaa. We started off by visiting an Ostrigde farm, where we got to feed the funny creatures. Little Tulli was so brave and let them peck the corn out of her hand too! We then continued to drive around the island and soaked in coast views from castle ruins, explored inside old Estonian windmills, watched the sun set over panga cliff and visited the meteor craters at Kaali.

Triin running

Tulli feeding the horses 

Leah ridding the horses

cliff of Panga

Meteor creator of Kaali

The next day we went back to Saaremaa and spent some time exploring the Kuressaare Episcopal Castle and its museum. It was great to see a 13th century castle still standing and used today. After pizza for lunch at the beach, we headed off to Sõrve! Arvi and I were really excited to see the real peninsula in Saaremaa that our Estonian summer camp was named after. Even though there doesn't seem to be much on the Sõrve peninsula except for a lighthouse and a few isolated homes, this was still a very special experiance for us both. As we walked out about 1km to the tip of the penisula, we felt like we were on the edge of the world. Too bad there were no bouys to try to hit because Arvi said Sõrve was covered in perfect stone thowing rocks. On our way back home from Sõrve we saw our first Moose on the side of the road! (thanks to Ene´s Moose- spotting skills). I was very excited because I had been keeping my eye out for them the whole time we have been in Estonia. But it was a female so no antlers... sorry Dad!

Kuressaare Episcopal Castle

Arvi throwing rocks off the point

At Sõrve point

Rasmus and Tulli, Maile, Ene, Elina, Rainer and Triin

Leah and Tulli looking at the Moose

Rock beach

On Saturday, our last day, we took the cars by ferry to Hiijuma Island. Personally, I think this was the most beautiful of the 3 Islands because of its beautiful beaches. We spent the day visiting lighthouses, beaches and a military museum fillled with interesting artifacts from Soviet time. We also visited a memorial for the children lost in the sinking of the ship ´The Estonia´ in 1994. We were sad and moved to learn that none of the children on board survied the tragedy.

Beach in Hiiumaa

Arvi in a little tanker 

Memorial to 'the Estonia'

Before setting off on the Ferry home, we finished off our trip to the Estonian islands with what would be our last meal of herring in Estonia,yum yum! Thanks Ene and family for a great trip!

so much herring

Haapsalu

Finally, the time had come to visit some of my (Arvi’s) relatives in Haapsalu! Ester, my Fathers cousin was more than generous letting us stay  and welcoming us into their home.We were so grateful for her amazing hospitality and tasty tasty food.

Mati,Embi, Arvi, Ester ja Lembit (and Sandy the dog)

Mati and Embi took us to some castle runes that looked beautiful with the surrounding grounds all green and ready for summer performances. Haapsalu has a picturesque boardwalk where we stopped for a smoothie and also looked at some pictures from when it had been flooded. We visited an old soviet airbase. We drove on the landing strips with old, abandoned  aeroplane hangers looking like little hills covered in grass on either side.

Haapsalu castle

View from the top

beautiful day beautiful boardwalk

The next day we drove out to see a recently created monument to the ‘Metsavendad’ (forest brothers) in which three of my grandfather’s brothers fought in during the soviet takeover.  It took us a bit of searching though the bush but we found it eventually! We also visit the old ruins of the homestead that my grandfather grew up in.

in the forest

Embi, Ester and Leah while we were looking in the forest

the monument with my vana onu August Lehtsalu engraved on .

Ester and I in the old runes of the bunker

During summer a lot of Estonians relocate to their summer homes. We dropped in at Ester and Lembit’s summer home close to the water with a lovely green garden with giant garden snails.

Leah and massive snails

striking a pose in front of an old manor

It was great to be around more beautiful family, hear some family history and visit the places where it all happened. Thank you Haapsalu we’ll be back.

my Great grandparents and their family